I’m not sure where the contamination came from. It could have been a bad bottle of distilled water, may have been the materials used as this generator was built using 304 grade stainless steel, or even contamination from glues used. What I do know is that production was badly affected by the build up of crud on the plates and the brown colour of the electrolyte. I tried cleaning the unit using distilled white vinegar and reversing the direction of the current with limited results. At the end of it’s life it was producing a lowly 550ml per minute from a 15amp current. Way down on it’s original production of 1.1 litres per minute at 12 amps.

What I have learned over the past year has convinced me that Hydroxy does benefit fuel consumption in a big way. This unit at it’s peak moved my highway mileage up to approx 70mpg, and gave me tank to tank averages close to 50mpg in mixed city and highway driving. Not bad figures for a 12 year old 2.2 litre engine.

I have also learned much from other peoples efforts and discussion in various forums. Time for a new design based on those ideas.

What I’ve learned is that larger plate area reduces the amount of contamination, that it is important to be able to dismantle and reassemble the unit for periodic cleaning, and that Hydroxy gas needs to be cleaned to avoid engine damage if using Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. The idle on my Cavalier became erratic at one stage and removing the Idle air control valve showed why. The build up of crud on the valve pintle shows the damage that traces of Sodium Hydroxide in the gas caused and resulted in my needing a new upper manifold housing as the crud on the pintle was from Aluminium that had been eaten away where the pintle seated in the manifold. Expensive lesson learned, use bubblers and a filter to remove any traces of NaOH from the Hydroxy gas.

My new Hydroxy generator design uses much larger plates, set extremely close together to reduce electrolyte concentration, and I am experimenting with different chemicals for the electrolyte. One benefit of the new design is that I can use much less corrosive chemicals and still get decent output from low amps. I’m currently using a concentrated lemon juice with a small amount of NaOH added to make the electrolyte PH neutral. If I want to increase the amps and output to a higher level, NaOH or KOH are unfortunately the only way to go, but for the production level I want things are looking good so far.

Part of the reason for the old design was to keep the individual cells spaced well apart as current can pass from the edges of the plates of one cell to the next in a wet cell design. This current only heats up the unit and produces no gas so is power wasted. With the individual cells about 5″ apart this lost current was minimised and the unit ran very cool.

The new design is also known as a dry cell as the plate edges are not in the electrolyte. The plates can be very closely spaced without current loss as the only way for current to pass from one plate to the next is via the internal electrolyte which produces hydrogen on one plate and oxygen on the facing plate. Both sides of each plate also contribute to producing gas rather than one sitting idle. This gives me an effective plate area across the 6 cells (7 plates) of 384 square inches, compared to the old units 180 square inches of active surface. Running the unit at the same current levels should result in less plate contamination due to the lower load per square inch. Time will tell. Gas production is certainly healthier at 1.2 litres per minute at 12 amps.

The plates are 8.3″ X 4.3″ with 1mm gaskets seperating them, clamped between 2 HDPE ( kitchen chopping board) end plates approx half inch thick. The end plates are approx 1 inch larger than the stainless steel plates to allow bolts to be fitted around the unit to compress the cell and seal it. There are 7 plates to create 6 cells. Each plate has 2  8mm holes drilled at diagonally opposite corners, just inside the area of the gaskets and allows the generator to be mounted at any angle. These holes match up with holes in the end plates for gas to escape from the upper corner into a reservoir, and for return electrolyte to flow back into the bottom corner of the generator from the bottom of the reservoir. No pump is needed with this design so long as the reservoir is mounted higher than the generator. The hydroxy gas flows upwards along with some electrolyte and creates the flow.

Current is supplied to the 2 end SS plates via tags on the 2 corners without the input/output holes. The current flows from one end plate, through the electrolyte and the intermediate floating plates to the final plate which completes the circuit. This gives a good distribution of current to the whole cell. The reservoir is a 2 quart tank and acts as the primary seperator of gas from the electrolyte. The gas is then fed into a bubbler filled with vinegar to neutralise any NaOH in the vapour and finally through a paper filter before going into the intake duct of the motor close to the throttle butterfly.

The system is installed and working, although the mounting of the unit leaves a lot to be desired. Future changes planned are to mount the Hydroxy generator in front of the radiator, once I locate some mounting strap and build a proper mounting bracket for the reservoir to move it further away from the radiator. Also build a better looking bubbler than the vinyl tubing currently in use and add an inline fuel filter to the tube supplying the hydroxy gas to the intake.

This started out as a project based on an ebook that was being hyped all over the net a year or so back. Unfortunately that ebook has led to a proliferation of ‘experts’ selling the junk design from the ebook via ebay with no clue as to what they are doing and no conscience. It has also led to a lot of people being scammed and created a bad image for Hydroxy in general. 15 months of experimenting, learning about electronics, chemistry and the engineering involved in building a solid, high output hydroxy generator has shown me that this is still a long way from being a plug and play solution to gas consumption.

I hope to be able to produce these units at a sensible price in the not so distant future, but my conscience will not let me do so until such time as I have proved to myself, beyond reasonable doubt, that the generator will function as expected under all user conditions. The only way to do that is to control all aspects of the installation which means it will be limited to a local market or to supplying the generator or parts to hobbyists who understand the installation and implications of the system.

Whatever happens in the future, it’s been a fun, educational and money saving experience.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Hydrogen power, Water for Gas, one year on

Here’s my Adgitize earnings for the last 6 months taken from the members area.

Date          Total Earnings
11/30/2008     $32.53
12/31/2008     $54.70
01/31/2009     $27.43
02/28/2009     $27.11
03/31/2009     $16.40
04/30/2009     $42.61

That’s an extra $200 into my PayPal account simply doing what I do anyway, writing articles and generating traffic. Take out the $14 a month I spend back into the system ($84 for 6 months of ads) and still a tidy profit.

As a thank you to Adgitize, and to all the other bloggers who have joined from this blog, here is a step by step guide to the way I maximise my earnings from the program.

Join Adgitize

In the Adgitize members area:

Add your blog

Add the RSS feed from your blog

Get the code for an Adgitize Ad block

In the Admin area of your blog:

Place the Adgitize Ad block code on your blog

Post articles to your blog as normal

This will get you started, you will get some points for visitors to your blog as well as article points. This will earn a few cents a day.

Want more points and $$?

Post a new article to your blog every day. (Or to one of your blogs listed at Adgitize if you have more than one).

If you have more than 1 blog add the blog address and RSS feed for each blog to your Adgitize members area and place the related Adgitize ad block code for each new blog on your site(s).

Use the maximum # of ads and ad blocks allowed on each of your blogs. ( 2 ad blocks and a maximum of 10 ads)

Log into Adgitize each day before you start visiting sites and clicking on the Adgitize member ads.
Use the “blogs you have not visited today” list in the reports section to find new blogs to visit and click ads on.

Only 1 ad counts as a click from each blog you visit, so chain drop from 1 blog to the next.

Join Entrecard.

Drop Entrecards at the same time as clicking through on the Adgitize ads to increase your traffic.

A combination of daily posting, points for visiting members ads, and points for page and ad views should move you into the 200-300 daily points region and increase your earnings

To maximise your earnings you need to get over 300 points daily. This can be done if you do daily drops, articles and have reasonable traffic, but there is an easier way.

Become an advertiser!!

As an advertiser you get an extra 100 points daily. You also get a higher rate of points for the sites you visit and your page/ad views.

Combine these advertiser points with the publisher points you earn for articles (100 daily if you write regularly) and the points for visits ( For Advertisers, 50 visits earns you the maximum 100 points ) and you have hit the 300 mark. Generate traffic to your pages to earn ad/page views and 400 points a day is an easily achievable level.

When you consistently earn 300-400 points a day, your earnings will exceed your advertising cost. Your advert is now effectively free and you will be earning some extra into your Paypal account. Think long term rather than instant earnings.

Check your stats daily when you log into your Adgitize members area ( Reports>Total points earned) and look for the areas where you earn less than 100 points a day. Then think of ways to improve each of these areas and you will soon be on your way to making a decent payout each month to cover the advert cost. Use the ad to improve your blog traffic, or to promote another program that earns you a commission.

Promote Adgitize!

Sharing Adgitize  with other bloggers will also help you to earn from the program over the long term.

When bloggers and other advertisers that you introduce to the program buy an ad, you earn a commission.

And, from my own experience, bloggers that advertise and promote keep on renewing their advert as it pays them to do so. You keep earning each month and so do they. Win-Win

Join Adgitize FREE here!!

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Adgitize Quick Guide

I’ve used Entrecard as a way to find new blogs and get traffic for more than a year, with reasonable results. Entrecard always seemed to be floundering around though, with a hard core of forum members constantly trying to push the owners around. The constant changes made Entrecard difficult to monetise, especially after their decision to stop sales of credits between members. The new (un)paid ads and the pittance being offered for credits do nothing to improve their system.

A few other Ad exchanges came along, but never appealed to me as they often seemed to be unhappy Entrecard members who used the Entrecard forum to get members, then knocked the team that gave them their initial advertising opportunity.

Right from the get go, Adgitize came across as a professional setup, which never stooped to the level of attacking other systems. The advertising slots are, and always have been, a service that is charged for.

Adgitize did have some server problems back in January, but the whole issue was handled in an extremely positive manner, with advertisers being compensated with a full months free advertising to make up for lost views.

Adgitize Publishers and Affiliates are provided with a free to use system that earns real cash (paid via PayPal) on a monthly basis with a low cashout threshold of $10.

Advertisers on Adgitize get great exposure across an ever increasing number of blogs ( currently several thousand and growing daily) for a extremely reasonable $14 per month.

As a publisher you are rewarded for the posts you make anyway on your blog(s), for the page views and ad views your blog receives and for the adverts that you click on after logging in each day).

As an affiliate, sign ups generated through your Adgitize link may earn you a bonus. There is no payment for simply generating sign ups though. These bonus earnings only come from members who advertise on the Adgitize system.

For a new advertiser introduced to Adgitize by you,  you earn $5 for the first month that they advertise and an ongoing $1 for every month that they renew their advert.

By combining all 3 avenues the earnings multiply. Advertisers receive 100 points a day out of the possible 500 points available to each member daily. Advertisers also receive a bonus on the article points, page view and ad view points and the points available for clicking on other advertisers ads. Each of these categories has a limit of 100 points per day, with the daily revenues of Adgitize being shared out based on the points earned by each member.

A recent restructuring of payouts has threshold levels set at 100 and 300 points to create larger steps in the earnings. Below 100 points a day the earnings are minimal, 100 - 300 points is an easily achieved level for any publisher who wants to make a little extra and the advertiser bonus makes it well worthwhile advertising if you are a blogger who puts in regular effort to generate traffic and keep an active blog. Aim to do enough to generate a minimum of 300 points a day and you will receive a decent monthly payout. Use some of the earned funds to advertise on the system as well as getting points for articles, views and clicks and your advertising cost will be covered each month along with some profit into your Paypal account.

I won’t bore you with the details of my own earnings. What I will say is that I earned enough the first month to start buying ads, I’ve received a payout every month since, which has been enough to keep renewing the advert, cover my annual hosting fees and pay for a couple of other commission generating sites for ongoing income.

By using Entrecard and Adgitize in tandem the dropping is made easier. Many blogs use both systems. Over time your inbox at Entrecard will be filled with blogs that also have Adgitize ads so you can drop your Entrecard and then click on an Adgitize members ad to load a new site. Don’t forget to log in to Adgitize each day or the drops won’t be counted and only drop on one Adgitize ad at each blog you visit. Use the reports section in the members area at Adgitize to check on your progress.

I always make a point of returning the Entrecard drops I receive as this is the best way to build regular traffic to my sites. Doing the Adgitize drops at the same time makes for more efficient dropping and earns me $$ too. I also visit at least one page full of sites from my Adgitize members area where there is a list of Adgitize member sites that I have not visited today. A great way to find new blogs and hopefully new visitors to my own sites.

Adgitize and EntreCard, combined with submissions to article directories generate a substantial amount of traffic to my sites. And best of all…….. it’s all free. Apparently there’s something called SEO that I also need to learn about in order to improve my page rank, but for now the volume of visitors as measured by Alexa is what I’ve concentrated on.

I try to publish at least one article a day on one or other of my Adgitized blogs. Some of the blogs are too specialised to be able to come up with a daily article, but others are much more generalised making content easier to create.

I hope this introduction to Adgitize and Entrecard as traffic generators will be of help to you. I also hope it will act as a balance to the views I’ve seen lately from a few other bloggers that are unhappy with the poor earnings that they have achieved. To be quite blunt, anyone who is not earning from Adgitize should take a look in a mirror if they want to see the reason why they don’t earn much. Then shout out here in a comment if you want help to improve your daily points score. It may just be some small detail that has been overlooked that is hurting your points total.

Rik

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Adgitize, 6 months on.

In part one I showed you how to make 2 easy mods to control the signal from the water temperature and intake air temperature sensors. In this article I will show you how to control the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) or Mass airflow (MAF) sensors, as well as a simple and cheap way to adjust the Oxygen sensors output.

If this is your first visit here please read the warnings in part one before doing any modifications to your sensor system.I offer this information only to help you understand the way a cars computer system works and how it can be manipulated, but will not be held responsible for any damage caused by your misuse of the information.

The MAP sensor measures the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold, more vacuum means less load and less fuel needed. It also measures the barometric pressure when you turn on the ignition to allow the computer to adjust the fuelling to compensate for altitude. Air density at sea level is greater than when you are at high altitude and the fuel map in the computer is adjusted to compensate for this difference. The MAP sensor is a variable resistance device that receives a fixed voltage signal of approx 5 volts from the computer and adjusts the voltage returned to the computer between 1 and 5 volts to tell the computer the amount of load on the engine and how much fuel is needed. A lower voltage means less fuel. Lower load also means the timing can be advanced without the engine pinging.

The MAF sensor sends the same type of signal, but in this device the amount of air entering the engine is used to set the return signal voltage. More air means more fuel and vice versa.

For both of these devices the method of signal modification is the same. these sensors are very sensitive so only a small amount of resistance is needed to modify the signal. A resistance in the 10 - 30 ohm range is sufficient to reduce the return voltage by the amount we need. I use a 50 ohm (ohms, NOT kohms) variable potentiometer in the 5 volt VREF wire as this is sufficient to reduce the return voltage by the small amount required. A 25 ohm pot would probably be sufficient and far less sensitive in adjustment but I have yet to find a pot of this size.

To make the modification, first identify the wires going into the sensor. There a normally 3 wires, a 5 volt VREF, Ground, and Output Signal. Cut the 5 volt VREF wire near the sensor and solder extension wires to each of the cut ends. Run these 2 extension wires to wherever you have mounted your 50 ohm potentiometer and solder 1 of the wires to the center terminal of the pot. Solder the other wire to either of the outer terminals. Which outer terminal is only important for the direction of rotation, so select the one that suits you. Always solder and shrink wrap connections made in signal wires as the minute currents are extremely sensitive to poorly made connections. Make the connection near the sensor rather than the computer as the VREF wire at the computer end may be shared with other components and we don’t want to affect their operation.

The connection could also be made in the Output Signal wire, however, using the VREF wire makes it far easier to measure the voltage change on a consistent basis. On my Chevy Cavalier the original VREF voltage was 5.06 volts. Reducing the voltage down to 4.8 volts is enough to stall out the engine, 4.95 volts allows the engine to run well without problems. That’s how sensitive these devices are!

Set the potentiometer to the lowest resistance side ( turn to the limit in the direction of the outer terminal you connected to) and start the engine. It should run completely normal if the connections are made correctly. Turn up the resistance slowly until you feel the engine start to hesitate. You have now reduced fuel to such a low level that the engine will barely run, and will overheat and do damage if used for any length of time. Turn the pot back down to a safer level for your motor!

By using this modification in combination with the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor, we can now adjust the timing by balancing the return signals from these 2 sensors. The AIT signal retards the timing as well as reduces fuel as the temperature rises. The MAP or MAF sensor advances the timing and reduces fuel as the load it senses decreases. So, by carefully juggling the 2 controls we can reduce fuelling and keep the timing where we want it, even on a distributerless ignition system.

The final sensor that we can modify is the Oxygen (O2) sensor in the exhaust system. This device is the most important of all the sensors as it over-rides all the other sensors by giving a consistent feedback of conditions inside the hot engine.

In effect an O2 sensor is a small chemical battery that emits a variable voltage depending on the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gasses. The voltage created is very small, between 0 and 1 volt on most sensors, although there are newer types of sensors that work in a different way by sending back a varying current and operate at up to 3 volts.

You will need to identify the type of sensor as this modification will only work on the 0-1 volt sensors. These come in several versions, depending on whether they have a heater element built in. The simplest type is the 1 wire sensor which only has a signal wire. next come the 2 and 3 wire sensors, the additional wires being a 12v feed for the heater and a ground wire for the heater on the 3 wire version. 4 and 5 wire sensors are also known as wideband or AFR sensors and need a different device to control them.

For those of us who like to tinker and have the older type sensor, here is a simple to build unit that does the job and is ideal for experimenting.

The biggest problem we face with the O2 sensor is the fact that it is like a self contained battery so we cannot use the cars 12 volt system directly to add voltage. Adding voltage to the signal is what we need to do to reduce fuel as the computer adjusts its fuel map based on the signal voltage it receives and a low voltage signal means the exhaust gas has a hign level of oxygen so more fuel is needed and vice versa.

This simple device works by adding in a tiny amount of voltage to the signal using power from an AA battery. The amount of current is tiny so a battery lasts a long time. I use this on my Cavalier and the Duracell battery is still going strong after a years use, although I wasn’t expecting it to last so long.

the computer is expecting a signal of between 0 and 1 volt from the sensor, and adjusts fuelling to try to keep the average signal around 0.5 volts. The computer also expects the signal to vary a certain number of times per second and not go outside of preset parameters. If the sensors output stays outside of the preset parameters for any length of time the computer will think that the sensor has failed and ignore it, using safe settings which use excessive fuel to make sure the engine stays cool, but will overheat your wallet.

Unless you have added a modification like a Hydroxy generator, the amount of voltage added should be kept to a minimum or your engine will be running weak on fuel with potential overheating damage. Hydroxy generators provide a fuel catalyst that makes the gasoline burn far more effectively inside the engine, but unfortunately the computer sees the cleaner exhaust as a lean condition and adds fuel to compensate, not the result we want. This is where the EFIE or this device comes into play. We can add back sufficient voltage to the signal that the computer sees so that it will not counteract the fuel gains that the Hydroxy generator provides.

Here’s the wiring diagram for the “poor man’s” battery powered device. It takes the signal generated by the O2 sensor and adds a variable amount of millivolts to the signal going to the computer.

This means the computer still sees a varying signal, just one thats a bit higher than the sensor is sending. Depending on how tightly the computers parameters are set, the added voltage can be as much as 450 millivolts, although this can trigger a check engine light on many cars.

As an example, the computer on my Cavalier needs to see a low level voltage passing below 285 millivolts from time to time to believe the sensor is functioning correctly. That means the most voltage I can add is approx 280 millivolts. Unfortunately that is not sufficient to compensate for the amount of Hydroxy my generator adds so I have the manual task of moving the control knob from time to time to drop the voltage added and keep the computer happy. It means I can keep the level close to 400mv most of the time though, which is the level needed to compensate for the amount of added Hydroxy and give the best fuel consumption. Someday I will get round to building a device to do this for me automatically, but not easy ATM as the only workshop I have is the trunk of the car. The alternative would be to reduce the output from the Hydroxy generator and get less fuel savings.

I hope these 2 articles have helped you to understand the way a cars computer control system functions and have also shown that tuning a system with a computer is not the ‘black art’ that many garages would have you believe so that they can charge excessive rates for fixing things. A decent scanning system that allows you to read the cars computer on your PC is a definate advantage though as it takes away the trial and error from the modifications. I use the ‘Allinone” unit to connect my laptop to any OBD2 equipped cars computer, and PCMscan software to monitor the sensor signals. These 2 items provide all that you need to check the operation of a cars computer system. The best 200 bucks I ever spent.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Electronic modifications to a cars sensors (part 2)

Circumstances haven’t changed, but lets get back to work anyway and que sera sera.

This article is hopefully going to steer you in the right direction regarding ways of fooling your cars computer into giving better gas mileage. I know gas prices are down right now and human nature being what it is, saving money on gas has a much lower priority. Just remember, gas prices will go back up and now is the time to make the modifications while you have spare cash available thanks to the current low prices.

These first modifications are cheap and easy to implement and are a good starting point in understanding the logic and methodology I use when dealing with modern emission control systems.

I equate working with car computers to the human brain. Brain surgery is complex and dangerous. But by modifying the signals the brain receives we can make it see thing in a different way. The sensors attached to the engine are like our eyes and ears. Put on sunglasses and things seem darker to the brain. Cover our ears and sounds are less intense. The mods to the sensors work in the same way by telling the cars computer that temperatures etc are different to what they really are.

Please bear in mind that in some countries/states any modifications are illegal due to ‘big oils’ control of government. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do them, just make sure they are done tidily and out of sight

Secondly, as with any modifications, do not be greedy in your search for economy. Used sensibly these mods will save you gas, but taken to excess can damage your engine by weakening the air/fuel ratio beyond the point where engine damage can occur. No economy in a burnt out motor.

The standard used by most manufacturers for air/fuel ratio is 14.7-1. This gives a reasonable balance of emissions between the hydrocarbons in the exhaust and nitrogen oxide which is generated at higher temperatures.

This standard has the added side benefit for manufacturers by giving them some leeway in the tolerances in building engines. Although current manufacturing processes are reasonably accurate, there will always be some variation in final assembly. It also makes catalytic converters a necessity to burn up the excess gasoline generated by slightly out of tolerance motors.

Although 14.7-1 ratio is the target, 2 identical cars may vary by anything from 13-1 up to 16-1 when they leave the plant. Both cars will run fine and when warmed up will have very similar fuel economy thanks to the oxygen sensor which is much more precise in its manufacture and constantly adjusts the air/fuel ratio back to 14.7-1 once the engine is warmed up.

Where the cars will differ is in the warm up period. A low air fuel ratio will use more fuel during this period than a a car with a high ratio. Just like using excessive amounts of choke on older cars.

Although it is possible to adjust the oxygen sensor values, that involves more complex electronics and will be covered in a later article. Driving style also needs to be taken into account when making modifications in that area, and also has a major impact on fuel economy in general.

For now I will just cover three simple mods that can be made by anyone with the ability to cut a wire and make a new connection in it.

The first mod will give more gains to people who make many short journeys as it only affects the warm up period before the oxygen sensor takes over.

The other two mods should be done in combination as they not only affect fuel consumption but also the ignition timing.

Modification #1 is to make the computer think that the engine temperature is higher than it really is. The engine temperature is sensed by a small unit called a thermistor that is screwed into the cylinder head, usually near the thermostat. This unit is a simple variable resistor that reacts to temperature and reduces resistance as the heat rises. There are only 2 wires and we will be adding an extra variable resistor between them, effectively reducing the resistance the computer sees. This is called a parallel connection and gives two paths for the current to flow.

For Chevrolet engines a 3.9k resistor is a good approximate value, but can lead to cold start problems in very low temperatures. For this reason I prefer to use a variable resistor or potentiometer rated at 5k ohms and dial it in according to circumstances. A switch can also be used to cut out the modification on excessively cold days, just for long enough to start the car. Fords seem to prefer a slightly higher value, around 5k ohms and for these engines an additional 2k ohm resistor can be added in series with the 5k ohm potentiometer.

By telling the computer that the temperature is higher than it really is, the computer will reduce the amount of fuel slightly to compensate and save you money. Not a big saving, maybe 1 or 2 mpg overall depending on the number of cold starts you make but a saving nevertheless.

This modification can be made by simply adding a resistor across the two wires by opening up the insulation and soldering the resistor in place. This makes the mod permanent but is easy to hide. Okay for those who never experience excessively cold weather. (top part of the diagram) You can buy this mod on ebay in a fancy case for 10 bucks or so, or just pick up the resistor for 10-20c in your local electronics store.

For a more controllable system, using a variable resistor and (optionally) a switch wired through to the driving position is a better system. This needs more wire and somewhere to place the switch and control knob but gives the driver the ability to tune the system to get the best results. (lower part of diagram). Cost should not exceed 2 or 3 bucks for the components and wire.

If you plan to follow through on this and the following mods, a small case or panel that can be place on or under the dash is ideal. Get one that has room for 4 variable resistors and 4 switches on the front panel and space inside/behind for a small electronics board and you will be set.

I think this article is long enough so will save the other two mods for a future article. One half is simply a copy of this mod, but connected to the air intake temperature sensor instead. Only use this on it’s own if you drive gently as it not only reduces fuel by making the computer think that the incoming air is warmer than it really is, it also retards the ignition timing and makes the engine run slightly hot. The other mod is different in layout but makes the computer think the air is thinner and advances the timing to compensate.

As I’m splitting this article into 2 parts I will also cover the oxygen sensor mods in the next article. Just using these mods on their own will give a small saving, maybe 5 mpg, if you drive sensibly. In combination with a HHO generator they will allow you to make full use of the extra fuel created from water by giving you control over the cars computer.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Electronic modifications to a cars sensors

A week before christmas my dumb-arse landlord gave us a months notice on the pretext of wanting the house for his son who was returning to Panama from the US due to lack of work. Made for a great xmas for us, trying to find another house within a month.

So far we are still searching, with little luck due to the inflated prices current in Panama. Rents may seem cheap to gringos, but not for folks on Panamanian wages.

For now my wife and son are living with her mother, I’m living with family and my workshop is in boxes in storage, so no experimenting.

What really pisses me off tho…………… I made a call to the agent who handles the rental…….. and was offered the same house at double the price………. so much for the ’son’ excuse.

How the heck are Panamanians, often on wages of 500 a month or less, supposed to pay $1000 a month for rent? We only managed before by having two wages coming in.

Greed reigns supreme. I for one will be glad to see this inflationary bubble burst and blow up in the faces of the speculators who come down here and ruin a great country.

Funnily enough…….. our landlord lives in Florida. Because the property prices are cheaper and he gets his medical treatment covered by insurance. LOL

Screw em.

I’m still dropping EC’s and doing Adgitize to the best of my ability, by using an internet cafe 15 miles away. It does limit my online time but I will continue to do my best by my advertisers.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Lack of Posts

Adgitize has surpassed all my expectations. I joined early in november when Adgitize was just a few days old.

The first payout in early december provided me with funds to use on Adgitize as an advertiser, as well as an affiliate and publisher, and my page views have rocketed. Currently receiving well over 1400 page views a day between my blogs.

If you have not already joined Agitize FREE, I sincerely recommend that you do so as soon as possible and benefit your blog or website from the extra traffic.

Sign up via the banner top right and then go to this article to read how to get the most benefit from Adgitize

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

WooHoo……… Way to go Adgitize!

Adgitise for Publishers. Adgitize is a Free to join advertising network that allows bloggers to earn real money for doing the things they do anyway. Writing posts, placing adverts on their blogs and visiting other bloggers websites.

From an Advertisers point of view it has many advantages over traditional PTC systems, the main benefit being no click fraud as your advert is shown across the whole network for the great value rate of $14 per month.

There is also an Affiliate section where you can get banners or text links to advertise the system. This can boost your earnings when any of the members who join via your links decide to buy advertising.

Joining Adgitize is FREE and allows you to participate in any or all of the above  areas. The sooner you join, the sooner you start earning so click on the banner to the right and lock in your membership.

How to get the most out of Adgitize as a Publisher.

When you login to Adgitize the first time it can seem overwhelming with all the headings. No worries, I’m going to walk you through them and also show you how to maximise your earnings.

The first step is to check that you have an RSS feed listed along with your site URL in the manage blogs section. The feed needs to be at least RSS version 2. This will allow Adgitize to see new posts on your blog and credit you with posting points. You receive points for 1 post per day.

Now click on the GetCode link in the menu and choose the advert block that suits your blog. My recommendation is to use the 125×125 one by four size if you have room as that will earn the most ad points. You are allowed to display no more than 2 of the ad blocks per page. The bulk of the adverts at the present time are 125×125 so give them priority.

Copy the code shown to your blog. This will differ from system to system, but for Wordpress the easiest solution is to add a text widget to your sidebar and simply paste the code into it.

The affiliate banners and text links are ready for you to use. Click on Affiliate in the menu and choose whichever of the banner codes you prefer. Copy/paste the code into your blog.

That’s the basics done. Write articles and show ads/banners.  Easy peasy

You can check your stats in the reports section. ‘Page views/ad views’ show the running totals of views for the day. ‘Total points this month’ are always a day behind as they are calculated from the whole days efforts and views are converted to points.

You earn extra points for visiting other members sites. You MUST be logged into your Adgitize account to get credits for the visits. Login and go to the Leaderboard tab. Click on one or more of the members sites (they will open in a new tab or window) and click on any of the Adgitize Members adverts showin on the site. You can chain drop from site to site following the Members adverts or select sites from the Leaderboard list.

Some of the sites do not have adverts as paid advertisers are not required to show ads. You can click from your own blog, but you only get credit for 1 ad click per blog. When you have visited all the available adverts on the system the ads will show as ‘Spot Complete’.

Want more points and more $$ ??

You gain points from Ad views, Page views, Clicking on Ads and Writing Posts. The more of each that you do, the more you earn.

• Write at least one post a day.
• Use the 125×125 one by four size Advert blocks to generate the most Ad views.
• Maximise the traffic to your blog by using EntreCard or similar traffic generators to increase Page and Ad views.
• Login to Adgitize daily and visit other members sites, Click all the Members Ads that are available.

Even more points and $$ ??

• Add more blogs to your account.

If you have more than 1 blog you can add them to your main account using the manage blogs tab. Then click on ‘Get Code’ where you will see all your blogs listed. Get the code that belongs to the individual blog(s) and place the Advert blocks on the relevant site. Your affiliate ads are the same for all your blogs.

• Advertise on the Adgitize system.

OK, this part is not free, but well worth doing. Adverts cost $14 for a full months views and generate a substantial amount of new traffic. The side benefit for publishers is that you earn even more points and increase your earnings, as Adgitize gives bonus points for being an Advertiser on their system. You not only receive advertiser points but also a higher rate of points for all the other points generating methods.

Check the Leaderboard, you will see that all the top publishers are also advertisers. You are not restricted to just advertising your blog. Any site that complies with Adgitize terms regarding decency etc. can be advertised.

• Promote the Adgitize system.

Promoting the Adgitize system via banners, text links or articles brings in new members and can lead to extra rewards. You don’t get paid for recruiting per se, The extra $$ are only paid if/when a member that you brought into the system buys advertising. Adgitize pay $5 of the first months advertising fee to the introducing member and then $1 per month for as long as the new member advertises. Lots of room for creativity and earning outside the blogosphere. Forum sigs, article directories, word of mouth etc. The only limit is your imagination.

I hope that this article helps You to make the best of your Adgitize membership and earn those precious extra $$. Any questions or comments are more than welcome as they will help me to improve the guide.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

How to get the most benefit from Adgitize

Well, all I can say right now is ………  WOW!!!!

Today I received a payout to my PayPal account, unexpectedly early. I knew I had earned some commission but wasn’t expecting payment until the 20th as per their terms.

Thank You Adgitize 

In one month you have paid me more than I eaned in a year from Bi******er, PW and AM****n put together.

If you have yet to take a look at or join Adgitize, don’t waste any more time. Adgitize is growing rapidly, serving ads at a tremendous rate, and they pay!!

Click the banner on the right and get onboard now!!  It’s free to join as a publisher or an affiliate and the Adverts are great value considering the amount of views being made.

As a publisher you earn a share of the companies revenue each month simply by blogging as normal. You earn points for visiting other members sites and clicking on the ads, you earn points for a blog post each day ( and that’s what you should be doing ……. making posts is the essence of blogging ) and you earn points for visitors to your own blog. All for FREE.

Why are you wasting time reading this far? ………….. You should already be at the Adgitize site and signing up as a FREE member to EARN your share.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

Thank You Adgitize :)

Having passed the 5000 mile mark since installing this home brewed HHO cell my results are as follows.

I have been keeping a log of all my gasoline purchases along with mileage and am happy to report that over this 5 month period and 5283 miles of mixed driving my mpg has improved from a baseline of approximately 34 mpg to an average of 48 mpg.

Also, on a recent 300 mile trip from Panama City to David near the Costa Rica border, I achieved approximately 67 mpg cruising on the highway at a steady 70. Only a few towns along the way where I needed to slow down, mostly good 4 lane open road.
I say approximately because this was a single trip and I used a different gas station when filling so the figure cannot be as accurate as a long term test.

Measuring the output and amperage draw on the cell after this length of time showed a slight drop in output. Unfortunately the cell is a sealed unit so I am unable to check the condition of the internals without wrecking it. When 1st installed I was getting about 1 lpm at 12 amps, but I increased the amps to 18 hot after a running in period and was getting 1.6 lpm of HHO. This has dropped off over the 5000 miles to 1.4 lpm at the same 18 amps.

I’m currently running the system with reversed polarity in an attempt to clean off any buildup on the plates. The NaOH solution in the system has remained reasonably clean but I expect that to change with the reversed current as any buildup on the plates will go back into solution.

I also took out a spark plug to check on the condition. The color of the plug is a good indicator of the mixture of fuel and air. Light tan is correct, A rich mix will make the plug darker and a white plug is a sign that the mix is too weak.

Here are 2 plugs for comparison. The one on the left was fitted new when I installed the HHO system, and the one on the right is one of the old ones I replaced at that time.

As you can see, the new plug is marginally lighter in color but still well within the safe zone regarding mix. Proof that the gains come from improving the burning of the fuel rather than weakening the mixture by overdoing the adjustments to the sensors.

Overall I’m more than happy with the results. Even though the cost of gasoline has dropped temporarily it’s proved to me that the technology works and will pay back even better in the future when gas goes back up. However, it’s not a plug and play system as many still selling garbage on Ebay make out. The system needs to be constantly checked for water and amperage draw. The sensor adjustments take a considerable amount of time to get right as the computer is a slow learner.

For a hobbyist with time to spend it is definitely entertaining. Learning about electronics, chemistry and physics as well as the pleasure in driving past more gas stations. For John/Jane average motorist I feel that it is still too much hassle. After all, half the motorists in the world are barely able to fill the gas tank without assistance.

Bypass the instant magic fixes and W4G systems that are being promoted by scammers. There are a number of good people supplying parts and kits now on Ebay for hobbyists at sensible prices. Check out some of the HHO forums and learn the basics before wasting money on junk. Most importantly, have fun and be safe.

Read the Original Post at: Gas Savers

5000 miles with HHO assistance. Update.